You need a Plumbing Permit, when any new piping (PVC, copper, galvanized, cast iron or any other type of supply and drain lines) or re-piping work is being done. A plumbing permit is needed whenever a toilet, bathtub or sink is being replaced, moved or added.
You’ll also need a permit if you plan on adding any piping behind walls for new fixtures, alter any pipes or remodel if it involves any plumbing to the new work. Some jurisdictions require permit for repairs to plumbing behind walls, ceilings and floors. This includes emergency repairs for freeze damage and leaks if the pipe is longer than five feet.
If you own the home, however, you usually are permitted to do normal repairs, maintenance and replacements of pipes and fixtures.
Generally, you won’t be asked to provide a plan or drawing to get a permit, but a simple sketch of what you have in mind makes it much easier to plan the parts, pipes and materials needed. When you go in to the building department for the permit, the inspector will ask you a few questions regarding the project and the fee will be based on the size and complexity of your project. Usually, you’ll leave with permit in hand.
Plumbing inspectors examine the plumbing systems, including disposal systems, water supply and distribution systems, plumbing fixtures, traps, drain, waste, and vent lines. All sewer lines from house to curb connection/septic tank must be left uncovered for inspection, and all water service lines from house to street must be left uncovered.
The order of inspection is:
A. Rough-in Inspection: To be made after all underground piping is in place and pressure is applied, prior to covering of piping under slabs.
B. Top Out Inspection: To be made after all rough piping is installed, including tubs, and the system is filled with water or pressure is applied.
C. Sewer Inspection: If a new sewer connection is made, piping must be inspected prior to covering.
D. Final Inspection: To be made after all plumbing work has been completed and all fixtures installed.
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