A TILE COUNTERTOP
 Is a tile countertop in your future? Solid granite is a popular choice for kitchen countertops, but the high cost of materials and installation can put a BIG dent in your home improvement budget. You say you really like the feel of granite, though.
There's good news . . . a less expensive alternative to a pricey granite slab is a granite or ceramic tile countertop. There are 12”x12”, 8"x8", 6"x6" and a range of other sizes and configurations of tiles available. Not only does a granite tile countertop make an attractive and durable addition to your kitchen, tile countertops are also easy to apply and weigh much less than a solid granite top, making it a perfect DIY project.
Here's how to create a simple tile countertop. A kitchen countertop, to be specific, but you could easily use this information for a bathroom vanity top or a work bench or a table or . . .
Tools Needed: (Print this out and use it as a check-off/notes sheet for your tile countertop)
__________Level
__________Square
__________Tape measure
__________Safety glasses
__________Carbide tipped scoring tool
__________Circular saw
__________Drill with screwdriver bits
__________Jigsaw
__________Notched trowel
__________Rubber padded grout float
__________Sponge
__________Carpenter's Pencil or Grease Pencil
__________Tile saw (wet saws can be had for around $100)
__________Stone Polisher (this is optional and is used only for polishing the edges of the tiles.)
Materials Needed: __________¼” x 12” x 12” granite tiles (or whatever size you choose)
__________¾” plywood
__________¼” cement backer board
__________A Few Dozen Screws
__________One Roll Masking tape
__________Thinset mortar mix (buy pre-made. It'll save time and mess)
__________Grout (Color-match to tiles) Note: "Sanded" grout is for spaces between tiles more than 1/4" wide
__________Grout sealer
Install Plywood Substrate: A tile countertop is easy, but pay attention to the details. It can get away from you. Begin by removing the existing countertops, then check to be sure the cabinets are level—both left to right and front to back.
 Cut the plywood for your tile countertop making sure to allow for the desired overhang (1" - 1¾"). For a thicker look, double the plywood, or glue and screw a strip of wood along the outer edge of the top.
With the plywood in position, measure from the cabinet to the edge of the plywood. Transfer this measurement to the top of the substrate, adding half the thickness of the cabinet frame, and mark the location for the screws. Drill holes (the width of the screw threads) and screw the plywood to the top of the cabinets.You can go right over the previous laminate countertop, provided it's well sanded and absolutely glued tight to the substrate.
Applying Cement Backer Board:  Once the plywood substrate has been screwed down, cover it with ½” cement backer board. Cut the backer board to size by scoring it with a carbide tipped scoring tool and breaking it much as you would drywall. While cement board can also be cut using a circular saw, it makes for a very dusty job, so work outside and be sure to wear a respirator and safety glasses.
Screw the cement board to the plywood, being sure to countersink the screws below the surface. Cut 2” strips of cement board and attach them to the edges of the substrate flush with the top. Cut the hole for the sink using a jigsaw. Most new sinks provide a template. Measure carefully to be sure the hole is centered over the base cabinet. You can also flip the sink upside-down and trace around the outer edge. Remove the sink and draw a line 1" inside the line you just made and use that to be your cutting guide.
Fitting the substrate around the stove will vary depending on the type of cooking surface you have. A freestanding stove requires no substrate while a drop-in type will need backing between the stove and wall.
Cutting Tile:  Once the full tiles have been laid, use a tile saw to cut smaller pieces to fit length and width of counter and backsplash pieces to fit along the wall. Usually, the backsplashes are 3" to 4" high, but its your call.
It may be hard to see pencil marks on granite, so you may use a strip of masking tape applied to the tile and make your marks on the tape or use a grease pencil. Tile saws cut right through tape.
Polishing the Edges:  This is your call. Some tiles may not need the edges polished, and especially if you're edging the countertop with wood. Bullnosed tiles might be available to match your regular tiles, too.
If you do need to create a more finished edge, you should polish before installation using a polisher specifically designed for stone. A stone polisher uses a series of coarse to fine pads. Begin with a coarse pad in the 50-150 grit range and work up to 3000-5000 grit. Rough or sharp edges can also be rounded using the polisher. Both wet and dry polishers are best used outside, as the process is messy.
Laying the Tile:  Here comes the fun part. Set up the tile saw somewhere close, but outdoors or in a drained basement or garage. It's best to lay out a plastic tarp and set the tile saw and table on that.
You can also make a temporary apron out of plastic, too. Did we mention that operating a wet saw is A VERY MESSY JOB! Cut the tiles that need to be cut and polish edges before spreading any thinset, then use a notched trowel to spread the thin-set mortar on the cement board substrate, a small area at a time.
Lay full tiles on the outer edge first, and space them using plastic spacers. Remember to overhang the tiles to allow for the edging. While granite tiles average ¼” thick, individual tiles can vary. To compensate for thinner tiles, use a thicker bed of mortar. Check with a level as you go to be sure all the tiles are the same height. You have a great amount of control as the thinset is pliable for at least 45 minutes to an hour or so, and with a little muscle, maybe even longer.
Edging and Backsplash:  When the top is complete, apply thin-set to the side, or edge, of the cement board substrate and position the edge tiles. For a uniform look, align the joints with the top. Use tape to hold the edge tiles until the mortar has dried. Check periodically to make sure everything's still lined up and straight.
To form a backsplash, apply thin-set directly to the tiles and press each into place, using scrap pieces of tile or wood splints to keep the backsplash tiles slightly spaced above the counter tiles while the thinset dries. Check these every so often to make sure nothing is amiss.
Now go to a movie or something, then get some sleep. It'll take 12 or so hours before you can grout.
Applying Grout:  Most of the time your tile jobs will involve spacing the tiles 1/8" to 1/4" apart, but even if the tiles are butted together, the narrow seams need to be filled with grout. Unsanded grout for spaces 1/8" or less, sanded grout for larger spaces.
Use a rubber padded grout float to force the grout into the seams then wipe off the excess with a damp sponge. Once the grout has dried thoroughly, you'll need to wipe the whole thing again with a damp rag. Then, when your kitchen counter looks absolutely finished ... and following whatever instructions are on the can, apply a high quality sealer to the seams to prevent stains.
There. All finished. Wasn't that easy? Great job!
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